The
Rise of the Porto Tónico
If you were
sitting at a cafe in the Veneto region in
the 1990s, you would have seen the beginning
of a movement: a large wine glass with
liquid the color of a glorious sunset,
sliced orange tucked onto the rim, and a
speared green olive buried deep surrounded
with lots of ice; behold the Venetian
Spritz.
That was
Italy. Today however, Portugal is the midst
of its own Spritz Revolution. The Porto
Tónico as it is called in Lisbon, and
described by the locals as a more
sophisticated take on that 'Italian
beverage', has taken a hold and is
gaining momentum throughout the country.
In the last
two years numerous travelers have made their
way to Lisbon, experiencing
this aperitivo, and have returned with
a notable desire to recreate the experience
with friends at home.
And so,
Renegade has stocked up on White Port for
the occasion.
Niepoort
Porto Dry White ($24) is the typical
first ingredient (2oz) then 4-6oz of good
tonic followed by a lemon peel and a
cinnamon stick (traditional), though an
orange slice, rosemary, or fresh mint are
creative alternatives. On a tonic note,
Fever-Tree is an excellent choice.
Renegade
also has Niepoort's 10 year White Port
($55). While you are welcome to create
an aperitivo with this one, it is so
complex, and has such depth, it's best
enjoyed singularly with only a modest
garnish. Aged cheese pairs well!
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2025
Hanabi Lager Co. Edition #009 $15 /
500ml
Moving
along to beer, we'll get the pedigree out
of the way first:
The
founder here is Nick Gislason, director of
winemaking at Screaming Eagle winery.
This
Hana Pilsner is made using an heirloom
grain variety named Haná barley. This
barley was originally used by Josef Groll
to brew the world's first Pilsner in 1842
in Pilsen, Czechia. The Haná barley was
brought back from near extinction by
British farmers in 2015 and is sourced
from one of the only fields in the world
today, located in Norfolk, England.
This
beverage delivers! A balanced and complex
flavor profile featuring subtle grassy and
herbaceous notes (basil, thyme...), hints
of red apple and white pear, with a slight
minty vibe and a long-lasting finish with
dried herbaceousness and a sourdough bread
character.
If you enjoy beer this is a don't miss.
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2024
Story of Soil Sauvignon Blanc Grassini
Vineyard
(Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara)
$40
Jessica Gasca does it again. A
beautifully crafted wine with silky
presence and stoney minerality. There's a
hint of salinity wrapped in fresh white
peach, cantaloupe, and lemon zest notes.
'Fairly brilliant' is an understatement.
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2024
Château Laulerie Bergerac
(France, Southwest France, Dordogne) $15
We've
spent weekends catching up on the Bruno,
Chief of Police series written by Martin
Walker. Set in the Southwest of France,
Bruno solves crime while creating
mouthwatering dishes in his kitchen. Of
course wine is a big part of his life.
We
came across this under-rated Sauvignon
Blanc a few days ago and thought of Bruno
enjoying a glass in his backyard while
admiring his 'truffle trees'.
It's
a subtle wine at first; almost shy, but
give it a moment and notes of beguiling
pear and melon come forth, the acidity
brightens, soon after a streak of salinity
peaks out, and after an hour or so, pale
notes of ruby grapefruit (but in the best
way) arrive. As for the price it's simply
silly.
There's
a bottle chilling for tonight's foray into
Bruno's latest adventure, "An Enemy in the
Village".
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2022
Thomas Farge St. Joseph Grand Angle
(France, Northern Rhône)
$42
Beginning
in the North where Syrah is King, we have
a wonder of a wine from Thomas Farge.
50-70 year old vines planted on granite,
the aromas begin with violets, blue fruit
with dark berry and lovely sauvage (forest
floor, chaparral...). Medium-bodied, fine
tannins and prominent stony
minerality. There's spice on the
finish; a savory longing as the glass
empties.
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2021
Domaine du Cayron Gigondas
(France, Southern Rhône)
$42
Last
time we came across this wine was in 2015,
so last week when our sales rep brought us
a bottle of their 2021 we were very
excited to taste; memory recalled a solid
wine in years past.
First
notes after first sip: brooding, fresh
earth, savory. Then, juicy, dark berry
fruit, violets, red nectarine?, bacon,
sauvage, lovely!
Not an overbearing wine as the 2021
vintage was on the cool side. Great BBQ
wine, or share a bottle at your favorite
steak place (Lucky's, Tee-Off,
Chuck's...).
____________________________________________________________________
Dessert is
Served!
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2022
Château Les Justices Sauternes
(France, Bordeaux, Sauternes)
$40 / 375ml
It
was a late afternoon last week, the temp. still well into
the 80s, when a sales rep from Martine's poured us a small,
cool dose of this liquid gold. "Best Sauternes in years" was
the response. Brilliant acidity perfectly balanced with an
array of orchard and exotic fruits.
It's a bottle (ok, half bottles), we opened and finished
when our order arrived, and with Sauternes and with two
people, that never happens. But it was just that good.
Yes,
perfect with seared Foie Gras, but honestly, this is a wine
to sip throughout the evening, allowing all the nuances to
emerge, at least until the clock strikes twelve.
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