Let's
dive right in. A friend was in town after a two year
absence to collect some of his wine from Renegade and to
catch up on the wine industry of today. Casually he asked
if we had any Groiss Rose from Austria to which we shook
our heads. This wine-savy individual then exclaimed it was
his favorite Summer Rose. Knowning his palate, we tracked
down the Rose, ordered a Gruner and a Gemischter Satz for
kicks and waited breathlessly for their arrival.
They
have arrived. Spoiler alert: They Are Fabulous!
First
a little about the winery from the winemaker herself
Ingrid Groiss:
"Passionate, emotional and determined. These are the three
words I would choose to describe myself when it comes to
wine making.
Although my education and first experiences in the working
world lead me on different path I soon realized where my
true roots lie and what my heart beats for: carrying on
with the family tradition making quality Austrian wine.
My goal: creating fine wines with passion and care, each
with its own distinctive signature and the utterly unique
taste of our region.
Early
birds (wine professional friends) who realized Renegade
had her wines on the shelves exclaimed,
"...obsessed with her wines..."
"OH! I LOVE her wines!!!!"
and
"...she is simply brilliant!"
After
a day's rest from their travels we opened the three wines
to taste.
2024
Ingrid Groiss Hasenhaide Rosé $24
A blend of 70% Pinot and 30% Zweigelt, this one has
the poise of an artist, the grace of a ballerina, the vibe
of an after hours Jazz club in Chicago.
The wine seduces with its aromas of fresh strawberries,
ripe cherries, and citrus peel, delicate floral notes and
subtle herbal undertones. Light, crisp, pure on the
palate, mineral-driven with beautiful acidity. Second
bottle was opened shortly after the first.
2024
Ingrid Groiss Grüner Veltliner $20
There's alot going on here for a 'entry level' Gruner.
Green apple, pear, quince, citrus right out of the gate.
Bright orchard fruit comes alive in the glass minutes
later. Balanced zippy acidity while a hint of white pepper
teases the tongue. And the finish is simply perfect.
finally we arrive at
2022
Ingrid Groiss Gemischter Satz Braitenpuechtorff $24
Let's explain some of the verbage above first.
Braitenpuechtorff is the specific vineyard where the
grapes are grown.
This leads us to "Gemischter Satz", an Austrian term for a
traditional field blend where as little as 3 grape
varieties and as many as 20 are co-fermented to create a
wine. It's typically associated with Vienna and
recognized for its unique expression of terroir and its
capacity for producing harmonious, complex wines.
Here
is the crazy thing: this wine includes (but is not limited
to) these varietals:
Chardonnay, Müller Thurgau, Welschriesling, Grüner
Veltliner,
Riesling, Grauburgunder, Pinot Blanc, Frühroter Veltliner,
Neuburger, Zierfandler,
Rotgipfler, Sämling and Roter Veltliner.
Yikes...and WOW!
This
is a rather sensational wine that starts out with Meyer
lemon notes and tingly acidity, then white peach, melon,
lemongrass, pear, floral notes emerge, along with so much
more.
This is a joy to drink. It continues to open in the glass
for ages. Our last sip, some 30 minutes on, revealed a
tremendously complex wine that was still offering up new
thrills (nearly ripe pineapple, red currant, winter melon,
a smidgen of Sichuan pepper).
I
think we just found Three New Summer favorites.
_______________________________________________________