|
There's always something new at Renegade. We finally
tracked down Chateau Musar's importer, brought in a
number of cool and unique blends, and even received new
releases from Sine Qua Non. So...
Read, Relax, Enjoy!
1998 vs 2017
Chateau Musar (Lebanon, Bekaa Valley)
In 1930, at just 20 years old, Gaston Hochar founded
Chateau Musar, inspired by Lebanon's 6,000 year
winemaking tradition and his travels in Bordeaux. His
'wines with noblesse' greatly impressed senior officers
in the French army on holiday in the 1920s.
Major Ronald Barton, of Château Langoa-Barton, stationed
in Lebanon during World War II became a great friend,
strengthening the links between Chateau Musar and
Bordeaux that remain to this day.
The wines of Chateau Musar are unique expressions from a
country with an ancient wine-making culture, as vines
have been cultivated from Lebanon's high altitude Bekaa
Valley for over 6,000 years.
The 1998 ($158) is a wine in its prime but still has a
long life ahead of it. Give this one an hour or two to
awaken.
2017 ($90) is drinking exactly like it should; fresh and
intense, boisterous and potent. Great with grilled lamb
(both are actually), but decant for a number of hours
for maximum enjoyment.
We're Suckers for Special Club!
2012 Henri Goutorbe Champagne Grand Cru Special Club
(France, Champagne) $140
A blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from Grand
Cru sites in Aÿ, this Special Club bottling had us at
twenty-twelve, a great vintage now and one that will age
gracefully for years.
Out of the gate this Special Club is both appealing and
indulgent with impeccable balance and lovely definition.
This is undeniably appealing now but you'll be rewarded
by holding your other bottles in the cellar for a few
more years.
Let's
Begin with an Odd-Ball
2020
Cantine Valpane Grignolino del Monferrato (Italy,
Piedmont, Monferrato) $18.50
Yes!
Grignolino is a grape and it hails from Piedmont.
If you've never heard of it that's because it's
rare, and sensible vignerons grow Nebbiolo as
there is way more profit here. But the few
hold-outs that still produce this unique
grape/wine do so in a traditional, masterful way.
As for the wine: the
first thing that will surprise you is this
Grignolino’s pale garnet color, and then, despite
that autumnal hue, its rather summery nose of peach
and blueberry. With notes of mushroom and forest
floor, it’s more complex than the price would
suggest and would even pair with a number of seafood
dishes (think Cioppino).
 Why Stop Now?
2019 La Basia Valtènesi La Botte Piena
(Italy, Lombardia) $18
Speaking of unique Italian grapes here are a few for
you: Groppello and Marzemino. These two native grapes
along with a bit of Sangiovese and Barbera make up this
wine located specifically in the Valtènesi zone, along
the southwestern shore of Lake Garda. Aged in concrete
tanks and bottled unfiltered, it benefits from a slight
chill: with loads of fresh fruit, a peppery crunch,
bright acidity, and light, smooth tannins, this
under-the-radar rosso is about as gulpable as they come.
Que
Syrah, Syrah...
2022
Domaine Faury Syrah Vin de Pays des Collines
Rhodaniennes (France, Northern Rhône) $34
Lionel Faury may be
best known for his sublime northern Rhône crus of
Saint-Joseph, Côte-Rôtie, and Condrieu, but he also
farms vines on the plateau just above these
appellations. These Syrah vineyards sit at a
slightly higher altitude and offer terrific values
for Rhône wine lovers, creating a bright, crunchy
wine that is irresistible in its youth. Lovely notes
of blackberries and violets shine amidst a backdrop
of granite minerals and soft brambly tannins,
offering just as much lively refreshment as earthy
intensity.
While great northern Rhône Syrah is perfectly suited
to carnivorous pairings, Lionel’s "Vin de Pay" is
nimble enough to enjoy with lighter dishes—served
cool, it complements just about anything.
Consistently among the Rhône’s best values.
In
Love with Savennieres
2022
Château d'Epiré Savennières Cuvée Spéciale
(France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur,
Savennières) $38
Finally
a Chenin Blanc from Savennieres we love (that's
not $100).
As Anthony Lynch explaions:
In
his book Adventures, Kermit outlines the magic of
old-school Savennières, aged in chestnut casks.
The rise of stainless steel sadly put many such
coopers out of business, but fortunately the team
at Château d’Épiré can still count on one reliable
chestnut purveyor. This material is an excellent
match for schist-born Chenin Blanc, as it
accentuates the wine’s stony austerity without
imparting any woody flavor. The blend also
includes a couple barrels each of acacia,
highlighting Chenin’s subtle floral tendencies,
and old oak, exalting its fleshy structure. With a
rigid backbone of acidity and a bone-dry finish
recalling fresh walnuts, this is quintessential
Savennières. -A.L.
And is this ever a
food wine! Grilled pork or prawns are perfect but as
an aperitif this wine is sublime too.
A
Blend to Bend the Head
2020
Herdade do Rocim Alentejo Vinho Tinto Amphora
(Portugal, Alentejo) $20
Moreto,
Tinta Grossa, Trincadeira. Say that three times
fast. Oh wait! There's also a smidge of Aragonez
in the fruitful mix.
This field blend has
a beautiful vibe to it. Juicy notes of pure fresh
black fruit, cherry and blackberry, hints of
cranberry tanginess, zesty and utterly
mouth-watering. A joyful wine! And the proprietors
Catarina Vieira and Pedro Ribeiro are utterly lovely
people. Go visit!
...the
Kitchen Sink
2021
Hugel Gentil "Hugel" (France, Alsace) $20
If
you thought Rocim's blend was exotic, then this
white blend seems more on the wild side:
Gewürztraminer,
Sylvaner, Pinot blanc, Pinot gris, Riesling, Muscat
blanc à petits grains. A little of everything and
wow does it work! As Hugel puts it, "...the suave,
spicy flavour of Gewurztraminer, the body of Pinot
Gris, the finesse of Riesling, the grapiness of
Muscat and the refreshing character of both Pinot
Blanc and Sylvaner". That succinctly says it all.
As
you may know we receive a small allocation from
Sine Qua Non twice a year. Small meaning a few
bottles of each wine, so no, we have not tasted
these. They're usually gone by the end of the
week. We will leave you with tasting notes from
the esteemed Antonio Galloni though:
2020
Sine Qua Non Distenta White II $275
The 2020 White Wine Distenta II is a rich,
deep white. Long élevage of 23 months in wood, on
the lees, works beautifully with this fruit. Dried
lemon peel, chamomile, sage, mint and white pepper
lend nuance throughout, but it is the wine's
textural resonance that stands out most. It's one
of the finest whites I have tasted from Sine Qua
Non in some time. The blend is 32% Roussanne, 26%
Viognier, 25% Chardonnay, 12% Gelber Muskateller
and 5% Petit Manseng.
2021
Sine Qua Non Grenache Distenta III $350
The 2021 Grenache Distenta III is one of the most
refined wines I have tasted from Sine Qua Non.
Floral aromatics make a strong first impression.
There's plenty of SQN richness, but also less
overt opulence than most vintages. The 2021 is
simply magnificent.
2021
Sine Qua Non Syrah Distenta III $350
The 2021 Syrah Distenta III continues the theme
seen in the Grenache Distenta III, namely a theme
of elegance, finesse and nuance to play off the
natural richness these wines always have.
Black/purplish fruit, new leather, spice, licorice
and chocolate saturate the 2021 with tons of
depth.
Call
805.568.1961 or email us to reserve your
wines.
We appreciate your support!
Renegade
Wines
417 Santa Barbara Street Suite A-6
Santa Barbara, CA 93101
805-568-1961
|
