|Rieslings and Gruner Veltliners are some of the most interesting wines on the planet. From wines that are dry and racy to wines laced with minerality and stone. Ever try Riesling with Sushi? It's a perfect pairing. Gruner with roasted chicken? Yes please.|
|2013 Alzinger Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Muhlpoint $32.50
There’s a markedly strong fragrance, a lot of torque; round, juicy, but also a big-boned peppery grip, like a Vulcan death-grip of pure strength.
|2013 Schlossgut Diel Riesling Pittermannchen Grosses Gewächs $76
This is superbly pretty—Diel at their best; the wonderful fruit and the crisp diction and the sense of constant motion from fragrance to finish and the thread-the-needle precision; a doctoral thesis of terroir without
floating into ethereal abstraction, this is a long winding river of shimmering beauty.
|2013 Alzinger Riesling Liebenberg $58
This is the best vintage ever bottled of this wine. A paradigm of pure fascination; white tea, chalk, water chestnut, soursop, in a digital mille-feuille of mineral.
|2013 Donnhoff Riesling Niederhauser Hermannshohle Spatlese $64
Qualities of sublimity and qualities of almost hyperactive acidity. A decadeskeeper, or if you drink it young, then food please. Think spicey Thai.
|2012 Brundlmayer Riesling Heiligenstein 'Lyra' $75
It smells like the pears in the Garden Of Eden, or like a cool cream in which yellow rose-petals and vanilla bean have been steeped. Cool and infinite; a tight nucleus of mineral and Saturn-rings of fruits, flowers and herbs. It isn’t overwhelming power—though power it has. It’s an almost devastating beauty.
|2013 Donnhoff Riesling Dellchen Grosses Gewächs $80
This is as pixilated and herbal-stony as I’ve ever tasted, so full of grasses and herbs and rock-dust. Ethereal finish,
exceedingly delicate. Wow!
|2012 Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner Ried Lamm $84
First offering of one of Austria’s iconic wines, the one they’d shoot into space to colonize other planets with. But it’s a murmuring monster, so dense that it barely lets consciousness through; raw dough and rice-chex, power and magma; quite incipient but a kind of brown-bready obdurate mass is there. If you dare to drink it now, at least double-decant.
|2013 Von Othegraven Riesling Altenberg Spatlese Alte Reben $58
Pungently mineral, musk-melon; palate is pure power but focused to a point of quantum; a slide of scree seems to overcome ones poor palate; high citrus and esoteric salts; a smoky tropical note resolves to a long peal of smoke wafting as though from a great distance. Very serious beauty. Wine of the Vintage.
|2013 Hiedler Riesling Heiligenstein $56
Subtly billowing yet hugely exotic fragrance, leads into a minty temperamental palate, with a vaporous length and a sense of singe, the edge of the wick, the tip of the joss stick; an amazing blueberry note; the whole thing is cool and coiled. Clearly superb, potentially magnificent.
|2013 Florian Weingart Riesling Engelstein Spatlese feinherb $40
Basically this is a genius of Riesling,
bouncing manically off walls of stone-fruit, berries, stone and mineral, green tea, orchids… and we have the privilege of taking such things for granted! Like “Oh yeah, that’s a Riesling,” without pausing to consider the miracle that something like this exists at all.
|2013 Nigl Gruner Veltliner Freiheit $22
Insanely pretty fragrance! Loessy, elegant and virtually perfect palate; focused, graceful and refined, and just a little “cool.”
|2013 Franz Kunstler Riesling Estate trocken $26
A superbly conceived and crafted wine, which is a fancy-pants way of saying it’s farking delicious. Very bright, insanely tasty, full of perfume, gently earthy, gentlemanly and reassuring.
|2013 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Heiligenstein $68
This masterpiece starts out deceptively gauzy,
with notes of jasmine, white tea and cox-orange pippins, but then suddenly it is insanely intricate, almost incomprehensible; verbena and aloe vera, chartreuse, lemon zest, semolina and ginger, and an astonishing finish you want to take home with you.
|2013 von Winning Riesling Ungeheuer Grosses Gewächs $64
This is like a liquefied sea-salt caramel, voluminous and
muscular and stocky, yet still classy and even glossy, and so ripe and juicy as to suggest sweetness that’s actually not there, but this is overwhelmingly seductive and convincing.
|2012 Veyder-Malberg Gruner Veltliner Weitenberg $106
"Insane. And I mean insane. Otherwordly in its complexity, but don't drink it right away. Pour it in a decanter and leave in the fridge for 5 hours, take it out and let it sit for one. Then you'll understand." -RW
|2013 von Winning Sauvignon Blanc II $30
"Ok...here's the exception. One heck of a great wine, perhaps one of the best SauvBlancs in its price range anywhere. Hugely aromatic, but cool, and restrained. Fresh, vibrant, and way ahead of its time. Do yourself a favor and check this one out!" -RW
A quick note on Rieslings: Grosses Gewächs means Grand Cru; basically the best of the best. Some say the it's like Grand Cru White Burgundy, but way better.
Rieslings are sweet like an apple, not like bon-bons. They CAN be sweet but not the ones you see here.
Gruner Veltliners are great food wine (as are Rieslings). Try a Gruner with roasted chicken, a Riesling with spicey Thai or fried rice. Crazy-good pairings!
All wine tasting notes are written by Terry Theise except where noted.